Introduction: Robotic Soldier

Take you ever wanted your own golem body guard or soldier? If thusly, then this is the tutorial for you!

Welcome! Today we are going to build a robotic soldier that will be able to execute any command you give it.

This project was inspired by Halo Soldiers and Patrol Droids from sci-fi movies. I am a big winnow of both and I wanted to combine the two to make my own customised robotic solider, and so that's exactly what I did. I 3D printed some Halo Armor, designed and built the robotic mechanisms, attached my custom robotic head onto it, added some props, and viola! I made my somebody a futuristic S.W.A.T robot.

To get started you will need:

(x1) Ardunio Uno

(x1) MOVI Shield

(x1) Self-powered speaker

(x10) 1 KG PLA

(x2) MG996R servo motors (Used for Bicep Mechanism)

(x3) DM-S2000MD servo motors (Used for Shoulder (if in that location is no bicep mechanics) and Trunk)

(x2) 60kg Servo (Used for shoulders only when you are adding the bicep mechanics. The DM-S2000MD servo and MG996R servosystem don't have enough torsion to lift the arm if you add the bicep mechanism. Hence you must use the 60kg servo. I lonesome used (x1) 60kg servo because I only had one moving bicep/forearm).

(x4) 6004-2RS 20x42x12 mm ball bearings

(10ft or longer) 2" Diameter Vacuum Pipe

(x1) Vacuum Pipe T-Coupler (non-threaded)

(x4) Vacuum Pipe 90 Degree Connector/Coupling (not-rib)

(x4) Emptiness pipework Coupling (not-threaded)

(x4) 2" Vacuum U-Strap

(x1) 1" Premature ventricular contraction pipe (Length is conditional 1/2" PVC Pipework length. Please bring up to images on step 2 for a better understanding).

(x2 Non-threaded) 1/4" Premature ventricular contraction Coupling

(x1) 1/2" PVC TA

(15-20cm long) 1/2" PVC Pipe (length depends along how large you want the torso to be. I recommend 15-20cm long. But 20cm is the MAX).

(Some) Plumbers Strap

(x1) 6V 10-20A Power Supply

(Optional) Some 5V L.E.D lights operating theater 5V Blinking RGB LED diodes

(Optional) Atomiser Paint

Now, earlier you get weaving you must have each the parts printed. First, you mustiness print and assemble Moe Sizzlac's Halo Armour which bathroom follow foundhere on Thingiverse. Then, you will have to print my Halo Robot Body Parts which can be found present on Thingiverse.

(Please line that Moe Sizzlac created and designed the Halo Armour so all credit entry for the Armor goes to him. I just happened to stumble upon it one mean solar day, and definite to print it and turn it into a robot. This tutorial is going to read you how you can turn his 3D printable costume into a chock-full grape-sized robotic soldier).

Stone's throw 1: Pre-Impress Tips

Bakshis 1: Not all of the Halo Armour parts need support. I was able to print the Forearms, Bang Heels, Shin R2 & L2, and most of the Second joint parts without support.

Tip 2: For the parts that command support, go into Cura, sink in customized setting, then click generate support, and select touch build plate below support emplacemen. Also, I used Zig Zag as my support model. (This will save you a lot of time and impressionable).

Tip 3: For the Infill select Cubic Section (It uses less plastic and gives your parts strength all told directions). This can be set up in Cura below custom setting, so by clicking infill, followed by infill pattern. I besides written all the parts with an infill density of 10%.

Tip 4: Join the 3D printed parts together using a soldering iron Beaver State Polyvinyl chloride glue. I extremely recommend welding the parts together with a soldering iron because you put on't have to expect for all the world to dry or cure, and it makes for a stronger stick.

Step 2: Some Things You Should Have it away

Before we get started, I would equivalent to let you experience that I will try my best to explain how I built the robotic body. The consistence was a prototype for another robot I had built (you can halt information technology out here). But after nerve-wracking to make a 3D printable body for this Armor, things didn't quite compute and I disassembled that golem to take in this unmatchable. Since that body was a prototype, I didn't take whatever pictures of how I reinforced it. So i'm departure to try my world-class to explain IT to you.

In the pictures preceding it shows how I made the torso rotate. First, I cut outgoing a slot for my servo to fit in the center of the Vacuum pipe and attache the 3D printed Axle to the servo. Then I found a Polyvinyl chloride pipe or coupling and jibe it onto of the axle (It's been a while so I don't remember what exactly information technology was). It was a perfect scene and I secured the two pieces with PVC glue. Then I took a 1/2" PVC pipe about 20cm long and involved it (using PVC paste) to the coupler that was sessile to the axle. then I took a 1/2" PVC TA and secured information technology to the top of my PVC shriek with PVC glue; After I drilled the hole through the Vacuum subway system T-Square bracket of course.

Then I created a trapping exploitation the deuce 1/4" and one 1" PVC couplers in order to dungeon the 1/2" bagpipe inside straight and aligned.

Step 3: Starting the Torso

Alright, hopefully aft having read the previous mistreat you have somewhat of an understanding of how the trunk will function. In this step I will excuse to you how to built IT.

First, Take a 20-22 cm lengthy piece of tube (This will determine how far divided the legs are). Past attach a 90 degree coupling on both sides of the tube, and secure them together with Polyvinyl chloride glue. Now, detect the centre of the Vacuum tube and cut of meat a rectangle for the servo to accommodate in (I used a Dremel to cut the rectangle) and cutting off a small square further away to allow the telegram to come out and non stay stuck in the tube.

Now, need the 3D printed charge causa 1 & 2 and tuck the 2 bearings into them and bolt them in collaboration, using two torso load-bearing case bolts. Wee sure the axle fits into the bearings and information technology rotates the bearings when you turn the axle. If that doesn't find and just the axle turns, sum up unmatched layer of physical phenomenon taping roughly the axle and push it through the bearings. And then bolt the servo French horn to the axle and attach IT to the control system ( make a point the servo horn is centered with the axle ). I used a center bif to help ME align the center servo horn with the concentrate of the axle.

Now, set the servomechanical to 90 degrees (This is very earthshaking).

(Refer to images supra)

Step 4: Starting the Torso (Function 2)

Now you must secure the Bearing Case to the Vacuum tube, to ensure it is sturdy and doesn't move. I used both metal brackets I had laying approximately to secure it. We deprivation to make sure that the Bearing Case doesn't rotate and doesn't tumble when the rest of the body is practical.

Stone's throw 5: Starting the Torso (Region 3)

Now take a Polyvinyl chloride pipe or coupler and fit IT onto of the axle. It should atomic number 4 a perfect fit and you essential secured the two pieces with PVC paste. So take a 1/2" PVC pipe around 20cm long and intended information technology (using PVC paste) to the coupler that was attached to the axle. Then take a 1/2" Premature ventricular contraction TA and secured it to the top of the 1/2" PVC organ pipe with PVC paste; but do that after you stimulate trained a hole in the T-bracket for the threaded portion of the 1/2" TA to tantrum through. You seat smack blue the TA after you have consummated the housing (which is the future mistreat).

Step 6: Protrusive the Torso (Start 4)

Now we are going to make the housing.

Take a 1/4" coupler and property it on-top of the bearing case. So take an appropriate sized 1" Premature ventricular contraction pipe and place it into the 1/4"coupler and secure them together with PVC glue. Then get hold of another 1/4" coupler and place it on-top of the 1" PVC pipe and secure it with Polyvinyl chloride gum. (Get along not secure the lowest 1/4" Coupling to the Void T T-Bracket out. IT must twirl freely).

Now, secure the first 1/4" coupler to the bearing case exploitation PVC glue first and then loads of charged glue.

Make a point to test out the torso to form sure information technology works. You can do this by manually turn information technology and so running a servo sweep code in Arduino.

Step 7: Building the Upper Trunk/Chest

Now we postulate to create the high body/chest. We can do this by creating a U-forge with the vacuum tube. The height of my vacuum tube for the arm part is 30cm you can have yours 5cm shorter simply I put on't advisable going any shorter or any longer than 25-30cm. If you have information technology to short the Armour will rub against IT's lower set off and it won't be able to turn properly. If you deliver it too long, the dresser is top and movement heavy (peculiarly with the head) so it will leaning forward and cause the torso to fall, peculiarly while rotating (trust me, I tried it).

The width part (the torso contribution) of my vacuum tube has a total length of 26cm from 90 degree coupling to the other 90 degree coupling. This consists of 2 short vacuum tube pieces which I conceive were around 6-8cm in duration.

Step 8: Adding the Armour to the Speed Torso/Chest

Straightaway take some vacuum tube couplers and confiscate them to the to of the U-shaped body (Upper Body/Chest). This will gives America a bigger superficial orbit to rest the Armour on. Piazza the Armour onto the couplers and adjust information technology until IT is mostly tied and can stay in this position on its possess with no support. If you refer to the images above you can see my robot with its head resting on the Armour. The Armor and head girdle still and nothing slides off. That is the sweet situatio. That is what we want. Once you take over saved that sweet spot, manually rotate the bureau aside lightly pushing and pulling connected the Armour from 90 degrees to 180, then back to 90 degrees, then from 90 to 0 degrees, past go vertebral column to 90 degrees. Do this manually and slowly to see if the head and/operating theatre chest slides off operating theatre outside from information technology original spot. If so, you must shift the Armour and find that sweet smear (this may take a while. If it slides a little bit but doesn't come off completely or isn't totally away from it original view, you should be fine).

Now that we found the sweet spot and the chest and head rest without falling of, we can now gobble the Armor to the U-wrought personify. We will cause this aside taking 2 U-Brackets (that fit the vacuum tube), and attach them together with the vacuum tube in the midst, so bolt the one side of the U-Bracket to the Armour. This allows the Armour to turn with the body, just as wel allows us to slide the Armor cancelled if we need to.

(Refer to the images preceding)

Step 9: Adding Armor to the Lower Trunk

Now we can attach the lour part of the Armour to the Lower berth torso. Hold some long L-Brackets and bolt them to the Armour and the metal brackets you used to hold the Heraldic bearing case in place.

Step 10: Animating the Articulatio humeri

First, cut up a time slot for the servo to fit in, and make a hole for the wire to tour through. Insert the DM-S2000MD servo (If you are not going to use the Bicep Chemical mechanism) into the slot and bolt it down (If you plan to utilisation the Bicep Mechanism, insert the 60 kg servo) . Then, take the axle and beetle off the servo horn to it (Make sure they are centered). Then place a bearing in the articulatio humeri bearing holder (you may take over to heat it up in order to press accommodate the bearing in). Now, enclose the axle through the bearing, making in for the axle and bearing rotate together.

To prevent the shoulder presence case from rotating, take some plumbers strap and bolt it to the bearing case and Vacuum pipe.

(Refer to images in a higher place)

Dance step 11: Animating the Shoulder (Voice 2)

Now, take Shoulder joint connector 1 and attach it to the Pivot (I welded it it using a soldering iron and some spare part PLA. That way it creates a stronger bond, since your liquescent the pieces together).

Now, if you're doing the exact shoulder you must set up your servo to 0 degrees. If you'ray doing the left shoulder you must set the servo to 180 degrees.

In one case you have set your servo to the appropriate degree, take the Pivot and Axle and attach them to each other victimisation the axle junky. Do a test to make sure the berm rotates in the correct direction. You potty serve this by welding Connector 2 to the shoulder Armour (Making bound it is as level and centered as possible). Now, you can slide it terminated Connector 1 and put back an screw through the muddle to join them together. Now, run a sail through computer code and do sure it moves in the proper direction.

Once you have tested it, you can weld the Pivot to the Axle aft you screwed on the nut of course (The nut allows you to prevent the pivot from rating while welding and gives you extra plastic for a stronger draw together. This is upright because these parts will be nether shipment, so we need a strong bond).

Repeat this step for the opposite articulatio humeri.

Step 12: Construction the Bicep Mechanism

If you want your robot to move its bicep either side to side or rising and down past you will need to build the bicep mechanics and utilise the 60 kg servo for the shoulder joint, as the early servos won't take in sufficient torque to lift the whole sleeve afterwards. I only built one Bicep mechanism sol I could have my robot put back the riot harbour in front of his face to give him cover and a nice pose. I had the other bicep welded to the shoulder (Bicep doesn't move)and I had that weapon harbor a prop gun.

Refer to the images higher up for the bicep mechanics assembly (I forgot to pick out pictures while I was building it, then I took a screenshot of the designs in sketch up and how they are supposed to be assembled).

First, weld the Bicep-Armor Connection to the Shoulder Armor. Set the Servo that wish come in the Bicep Servo Holder to 0 degrees if you are doing the right bicep or 180 degrees if you're doing the left bicep. Bolt the servo to the Bicep Servo Holder and bolt the servo horn to Bicep U-Square bracket V.2. Now, take the Servo Axle and push IT trough the holes. This will act as pin to retain everything aligned and allow the mechanism to turn. Now, Screw the Servo Axle Nut onto the Servo Axle, to ensure the Servo Axle will not sloping trough out when he bicep mechanism moves.

After you have done that, weld the assembled bicep mechanism to the Bicep-Armour Connection, and the Forearm Armour. (Bicep U-Bracket V.2 gets welded to the forearm, and Bicep Servo Holder gets welded to the Bicep-Armour Connector).

Step 13: Creating the Legs

Alright, for this whole step we wish exist creating the legs.

First, cut 2 pieces of thermionic tube that volition be the coveted length of the leg. And then attach a 90 degree coupling from the leg to the torso. Do the duplicate for the other incline. Now, Take a practice and drill out a 1/4" muddle through the 90 degree coupling and the branch. now slip in a 1/4" pin through the hole. This will keep join the leg and torso together, but if you need to transport it, you can take out the pin and the legs will come polish off. Formerly you have done that, go around the torso tube until the chest and head are straight and are not leaning forward (I had to splay my torso tube backward a wee bit). Please refer to the images above for a better understanding.

Once you have your sought after results/position you May apply glue the outside of the degree coupler and torso tube. That style you don't have to carry apart the coupler from the trunk subway, apply glue, then reattach IT and reposition the body tube. If your torso tube and coupling fit really tightly together (I mean really tight. And so tight that it would take most totally your strength to pull them apart), you could receive away with non gluing them.

Formerly you have that all straightened out, find an appropriate sized base and charter two 2" couplers and secure them to the base (I bolted information technology down victimization L-Brackets). In front you bolt it downhearted, make a point the couplers are the blank space out the cookie-cutter as the legs. (I spot the legs onto the pedestal and circled where they were, that way I knew where I had to put the coupler).

Step 14: Hiding the Internals

To make our golem look nice we must hide the internals.

To do this I used an old shirt and I hot glued IT to the superlative of the torso just I left the bottomland incomplete unglued, soh IT could spin freely with the torso (If you glue the bottom the torso will not be able to go around because the shirt will blockade it).

For the arm I charged pasted the front half of the arm cakehole. I left the back half uncovered just in case I needful to get in at that place and make some upgrades or modifications. I added a small dab of hot glue near the screw connected the Articulatio humeri connector, so the shirt would encompass the shoulder parts and not fall down when it rotates.

For the legs, I hot affixed the top half and let the bottom fractional drape dispirited and I secured it to the Armor with Velcro. Merely since the Velcro an't strong enough (Well, for me anyways) I used thumbtacks to hold it in place. This elbow room when I need to take the PIN out and take hit the legs completely I need to dress is un-Velcro and un-tack the shirt from the leg Armour.

For the Bicep, I hot glued the spinning top half and let the bottom half drape dejected into the forearm armor. This will allow the shirt to move with the bicep when it rotates and not beat caught. For the other bicep (the one that doesn't move) I precisely hot glued the top and keister.

Refer to the pictures above for a break understanding.

Mistreat 15: Wiring and Programming

First get going by following the instructions for the MOVI Shield (Which throne comprise found here). Now wire all the overconfident and negative terminals of all your servo motors to the powerfulness render. Then take the signaling wires of each servo and plug them into there respective pins along the Arduino.

Important: You must also touch base all the negative wires from the servosystem to the Arduino As well. So the blackbal wires puzzle connected to the power cater and the GND pin on the Arduino. (I forgot to do this and it drove me brainsick for about 10 minutes until I finally realized what the problem was).

servo1 is the Torso (pin 3), servo2 is the R-Articulatio humeri (pin 5), servo3 is the R-Bicep(pin 6), and servo4 is the L-Shoulder (pin 9).

Now, take all the negative pins from your LEDs and connect them all together and wire them to the negative of the power supply. Take the positive leads from each of your LEDs and attach them to their respected pins on the Arduino.

Pins where positive wire of LED connects. (4=Chest of drawers Armour Light-emitting diode 7=Eye LED 8=Shield LED)
led1 connects to immobilise 4, led2 connects to tholepin 7, led3 connects to PIN 8

Forthwith, you can upload the code to the Arduino/Movi Shied (The code can be found on the next stair Beaver State on my Thingiverse Page).

Stair 16: The Code

hereDownload the Arduino code and upload information technology to the MOVI Shield.

My MOVI Screen was performing very weird. It wouldn't let ME upload my latest version of the code (MK 4) but it would upload anything other curriculum. I manged to solves this by uploading an in the first place version (MK 3) of the code so uploading the MK 4 code. If you run into this problem, hopefully this volition fix it. (I have included both versions of the code preceding).

Update (7/20/20): I get created a encipher which allows the MOVI Shield to communicate with Pololu's Master board. This allows you to produce a bit/gesture on the Maestro and employment voice commands to initiation it. The cypher is provided below (SERGEY MK 5 Program).

If you demand help understanding how the code works you can aspect my discussion of how to induce it operational, here.

I have also let in pictures of my Maestro script computer code and serial settings above.

Wiring schematics can glucinium found along Pololu's site and I likewise commented some of them in the Arduino code.

Update (7/31/20): I have updated the code to allow break communicating with the Maestro board. I had created a longer routine for the Maestro and the Arduino/Movi Shell had a problem running it. The MK 6 cipher allows the new routine to run. You can see my new ordinary in accomplish here.

Step 17: Delight and Stay Tuned!

Now you can enjoy your very personal robot soldier. Feel free to modify the code to allow your robot to fulfil new commands.

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